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Wednesday
May272009

How to Cook a Wolf... and other simple pleasures

Diver Scallops - Crudo Taken from the title of the M.F.K. Fisher novel written in 1942, How to Cook a Wolf, on Queen Anne Hill, is a new Seattle stand out that does indeed quench hunger with a joyful bounty of wonderful creations. The tiny space comes alive with a small plate menu that changes daily. Chef/owner Ethan Stowell and his business partner, Patric Gabre-Kidan, who brought Tavolata to Belltown, borrow on the format but in an intimate and creative new way.

Chef de cuisine Ryan Weed and sous chef Jason Stoneburner, with almost no refrigeration and a very small pantry, produce wonderful, straight forward and profound flavor elements.

I stopped by on a Friday evening and asked the chef to just cook me a couple of dishes that he was proud of. The menu really had so many interesting items that it would have been hard to choose in any case. I started off with a tapas plate—Diver Scallops “Crudo”—sliced thin and fanned out on the plate drizzled with olive oil and a sprinkle of Serano chilies, topped with a smear of bright green avocado puree. Great texture, fresh and buttery. The warmth from the chilies and coolness from the puree created a simple, seductive and complex combination that followed the rule of three: one main ingredient, and up to two other additions, add up to form a whole greater that the sum of its parts. Complexity and creative interest, and great taste!

Escolar, Morrels, Peas & PancettaFor my next course I was offered a Pan Seared Escolar done with fresh morrels, English peas and pancetta…so fresh, with its mix of sweet, salty, and rich flavors. The fish was perfectly cooked and firm.

The wine list is all Italian…many well priced wines that work well with the food. I really loved a 2007 Sori Dolchetto d’ Alba.




otv rating (0 to 20)

food: 18
service: 16
vibe: 13
$$ to $$$

2208 Queen Anne Ave. North
Seattle - 206-838-8090 -online

No reservations

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